Linen products are hygroscopic, breathable, refreshing, naturally antibacterial, anti-radiation and non-static, green and environmentally friendly, and beneficial to health. More and more consumers are eager to wear them. However, because linen products also have a rough and hard feel, they are difficult to wear when worn. It is easy to wrinkle, has a large shrinkage rate and becomes hard after washing, and has poor dyeability. Knitted products are prone to defects such as weft skew, and consumers stay away from it because it is difficult to meet people’s aesthetic habits of clothing and the pursuit of a perfect combination of product intrinsic quality and form. Require.
Flax fiber is a natural fiber and is a bast fiber among cellulose fibers. During the degumming process, only partial degumming is possible, and the presence of gum is one of the reasons why flax fibers feel hard. Flax fiber has high crystallinity (about 70%) and high orientation. The intersection angle between the fibril and the fiber axis is less than 10°, so the elongation at break is small (the intersection angle between the fibril and the fiber axis in cotton fiber is between 20° and 30°). The elongation at break of the fiber reflects the flexibility of the fiber. Taking 41.67tex flax as an example, its elongation at break is 4.2%, while the elongation at break of 29.16tex cotton yarn is 7.7%, so flax More rigid than cotton fiber.
To sum up, the main reason why flax feels harder than cotton fiber is that the bundle fibers contain part of colloid. Flax fiber has high crystallinity, small elongation at break, high rigidity and low flexibility.
Softness of linen fabric
①Pre-treatment should be strengthened.
It is impossible to remove all impurities after reducing, boiling, and bleaching. According to experience, pre-treatment with mercerization and then re-bleaching can improve the feel of linen fabrics. The reason is that the impurities in the fibers can be further removed, reducing the cohesion between the fibers, making the fibers relatively loose and soft to the touch.
②Using biodegradation method
Treatment with cellulase destroys the orderly arrangement in flax fibers, changes larger molecular chains in the fibers into smaller molecular chains, reduces the orientation and crystallinity of the fibers, and increases the breakage of the fibers. Stretch to increase flexibility.
③Softener treatment
Treatment with softeners is an important step in improving the feel of linen fabrics, but you should be careful when choosing softeners, such as linen softeners, amino-modified silicone oil, etc. There are also some compounds of cationic softeners and silicones.
④ Strengthen pre-shrinking and finishing.
After the linen fabric is pre-shrunk, the fabric is stretched and rubbed by the rubber blanket, making the fabric tissue more fluffy and plump, with a softer feel, and the shrinkage rate can be controlled at the same time.
⑤ Carry out washing and finishing.
Some linen fabrics need to be washed and finished. After washing, they are spin-dried and turned continuously in a drum-type hot air dryer. The high-temperature hot air enters the inside of the fibers, and the fabric becomes fluffy, thick, velvety on the surface, and soft and plump to the touch.
Anti-shrinkage finishing of linen fabrics
Whether it is linen knitted fabric or woven fabric, if it is wetted with water again in a relaxed state, it will shrink significantly. If the fabric is made of fabric whose size is not yet stable, after washing, it will shrink to a certain extent, which will cause Deformation or distortion of clothing will cause losses to consumers. Therefore, anti-shrink finishing of fabrics is particularly important in stabilizing the dimensional stability of fabrics. Since the main cause of fabric shrinkage is due to changes in fabric shrinkage, the basic principle of fabric anti-shrinkage treatment is to use certain mechanical treatments to increase the weft density and warp shrinkage of the fabric to a certain level before the fabric becomes a product. degree, giving the fabric a relaxed structure. The fabric after this kind of mechanical finishing not only has less deformation after drying, but also when the fabric swells after being moistened, because there is enough room or gap between the warp yarn and the weft yarn, the warp length of the fabric will not be caused. shortening and shrinkage in the weft direction. In fact, it is to pre-shrink the existing potential shrinkage of the fabric before it becomes the finished product, which can significantly reduce the shrinkage rate of the finished product. This method is called mechanical pre-shrinking finishing. At present, flax mills mainly use compression shrink-proof machines for mechanical pre-shrinking.
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