Color fastness is one of the main testing items for textiles, and it is also an assessment item stipulated in the mandatory national standard GB 18401-2003 “National Basic Safety Technical Specifications for Textile Products” [1].
Color fastness refers to the degree of color retention of textiles under a certain environmental state. For example, color fastness to perspiration tests the degree of color retention of textiles in sweat. There are many types of color fastness items, including color fastness to soaping, color fastness to water, color fastness to perspiration, color fastness to rubbing, color fastness to light, color fastness to sea water, etc. Among them, color fastness to water , color fastness to perspiration and color fastness to rubbing are assessment items stipulated in GB 18401-2003 “National Basic Safety Technical Specifications for Textile Products”.
The textile color fastness method standards used in China are the GB/T series, which are equivalent to the ISO series standards or slightly modified from the ISO series standards. Therefore, there is almost no difference between the color fastness standards GB/T series and the ISO series, but they are different from those in the United States. The standards of the Association of Colorists and Colorists (AATCC) are quite different. This study compares the corresponding GB/T standards and AATCC standards for color fastness to water, color fastness to perspiration, and color fastness to rubbing.
1 Color fastness standard
The GB/T standards and AATCC standards used in textile color fastness testing are shown in Table 1.
2 Water fastness standard
Comparison 2.1 Sample
The sample size specified in GB/T 5713-1997 is 40 mm
The sample size specified in AATCC 107-2007 is (60±2)mmX(60±2)mm, which is a square sample.
2.2 Lining fabric
The lining specified in GB/T 5713-1997 can be a multi-fiber lining fabric or a single fiber lining fabric. If a single fiber lining is used, one of the linings should be made of the same type of fiber as the sample, and the other should be made of fibers specified in the corresponding standard. If the sample is a blended or interwoven product, the first piece should be made of the main content. of fiber, the second piece is made with a minor content of fiber. There are two types of multi-fiber lining specifications, DW type and TV type: DW type is composed of wool, acrylic, polyester, nylon, cotton, acetate; TV type is composed of viscose, acrylic, polyester, nylon, cotton, triacetate .
AATCC 107-2007 stipulates that only multi-fiber linings can be used, and there are two specifications: NO.1 and N0.10. N0.1 consists of wool, viscose, mulberry silk, nylon, cotton, and acetate; NO.10 consists of wool, acrylic, polyester, nylon, cotton, and acetate.
2.3 Sample moisture content
AATCC 107-2007 stipulates that the impregnated sample and lining should be pressurized by a milk truck so that the wet weight of the combined sample is 2.5 to 3.0 times the dry weight.
GB/T 5713-1997 does not specify the moisture content of the impregnated sample and lining.
2.4 Mass of heavy hammer
The impregnated combined sample is sandwiched between glass plates or plastic plates, placed in the sweat tester, and then pressed with a weight to make the sample bear a certain pressure. GB/T 5H3-1997 and AATCC 107-2007 have different requirements for the weight of the hammer, which are 5 kg and 4.5 kg respectively.
2.5 Oven temperature
The combined sample must be placed in the oven for a certain period of time. GB/T 5713-1997 stipulates that the oven temperature is (37±2)°C, and AATCC 107-2007 stipulates that the oven temperature is (38±1)°C.
2.6 Constant temperature time
GB/T 5713-1997 and AATCC 107-2007 have different provisions on the placement time of combined samples in the oven, which is 4 h, while the latter is 18 h.
3 Comparison of color fastness standards to perspiration
3.1 Sample
The specimen size specified in GB/T 3922-1995 is 40 mm X 100mm, and the specimen size specified in AATCC 15-2007 is (60±2)mm
3.2 Lining fabric
The lining specified in GB/T 3922-1995 can be a multi-fiber lining fabric or a single fiber lining fabric. AATCC 15-2007 stipulates that only multi-fiber linings can be used.
3.3 Sweat components
The AATCC 15-2007 standard only tests the color fastness of fabrics in acid sweat, and stipulates that each liter of artificial sweat contains 10 g sodium chloride, 1 g lactic acid, 1 g anhydrous disodium hydrogen phosphate, and 0.25 g chlorohydroxyhistidine.
The GB/T 3922-1995 standard tests the color fastness of fabrics to alkali sweat and acid sweat respectively. It stipulates that the alkali sweat solution contains 0.5 g histidine hydrochloride, 5 g sodium chloride, and 5 g disodium hydrogen phosphate per liter. Dodecahydrate; acid sweat solution contains 0.5 g histidine hydrochloride, 5 g sodium chloride, and 2.2 g sodium dihydrogen phosphate dihydrate per liter.
3.4 Sweat pH
The sweat pH value specified by AATCC 15-2007 is 4.3±0.2. After the sweat liquid is prepared, use a pH meter to measure its pH value. It should be 4.3±0.2. NaOH solution cannot be used to adjust it. If the specified pH value cannot be reached, it needs to be reconfigured.
The pH value of alkali solution specified in GB/T 3922-1995 is 8.0, and the pH value of acid solution is 5.5. Use 0.1 mol/L NaOH solution to adjust to the desired pH value. 3.5 liquor ratio
AATCC 15-2007 stipulates that the sample is placed in a petri dish with a diameter of 9 cm and a depth of 2 cm, and 1.5 cm of the newly prepared solution is added. The volume of the solution is n cm3, that is, each groupThe amount of sweat used in the sample is 95 cm3.
GB/T 3922-1995 stipulates that the bath ratio is 50:1, that is, the mass of sweat used in each group of samples is 50 times that of the combined sample. If the total mass of the sample and lining is 2 g, the amount of sweat is 100 g. That is 100 mL.
3.6 Hammer mass
The impregnated combined sample is sandwiched between glass plates or plastic plates, placed in the sweat tester, and then pressed with a weight to make the sample bear a certain pressure. GB/T 3922-1995 and AATCC 15-2007 have different requirements for the weight of the weight. The former stipulates that the weight of the weight is 5 kg, while the latter stipulates that the weight of the weight is 4.5 kg.
3.7 Oven temperature
The combined sample must be placed in the oven for a certain period of time. GB/T 3922-1995 stipulates that the oven temperature is (37±2)°C, and AATCC 15-2007 stipulates that the oven temperature is (38±1)C.
3.8 Constant temperature time
GB/T 3922-1995 and AATCC 15-2007 have different provisions on the placement time of combined samples in the oven, which are 4 h and 6 h ± 5 min respectively.
4 Comparison of color fastness standards to rubbing
4.1 Sample
GB/T 3920-2008 stipulates that two sampling methods can be selected. One is to sample two pieces, one of which has the length direction parallel to the warp yarn for dry and wet friction tests in the warp direction, and the other piece has the length direction parallel to the weft yarn. , used for dry and wet friction tests in the weft direction. Another sampling method is to cut the length of the sample at an angle to the warp and weft directions of the fabric. AATCC 8-2007 stipulates that the length direction of the sample is oblique to the warp and weft directions of the fabric.
4.2 Moisture content of standard friction white cloth
The moisture content of friction white cloth specified in GB/T 3920-2008 is 95% to 100%. When the moisture content of friction cloth may seriously affect the rating, other moisture contents can be adopted. The moisture content of friction white cloth specified in AATCC 8-2007 is (65±5)%.
4.3 Equipment
There are similarities between the tribometers specified in GB/T 3920-2008 and AATCC 8-2007. For example, the diameter of the circular friction head is 16 mm, the vertical pressure of the friction head is 9 N, and the linear reciprocating stroke is 104 mm.
The difference between the equipment is: the friction meter corresponding to GB/T 3920-2008 has two types of friction heads: round and rectangular. The rectangular friction head is used for velvet fabrics, and the round friction head is used for all kinds of fabrics except velvet fabrics. kind of textiles; the tribometer corresponding to AATCC 8-2007 only has a round friction head and is used for various textiles including velvet fabrics. The start-up of the friction meter corresponding to GB/T 3920-2008 is controlled by the power supply, and the reciprocating speed and number of times of the friction head are controlled by the motor, while the friction meter corresponding to AATCC 8-2007 is manually controlled, shaking and rubbing at a speed of 1 circle/s. Arm 10 circles.
5 Sample test
This study takes mulberry silk fabric as the object. A total of 5 samples were selected and tested for color fastness to water, color fastness to perspiration, and color fastness to rubbing according to GB/T and AATCC standards. The results are shown in Table 2. The sample lining is a multi-fiber lining specified in the corresponding standard. The staining fastness in Table 2 is the most serious staining degree among the multi-fiber linings.
It can be seen from Table 2 that the results are different when tested according to different standards. The color fastness to water staining test results according to AATCC 107-2007 are poor because the types of multi-fiber lining used are different. The AATCC 107-2007 lining combination contains silk fiber. This test sample has silk fiber lining. The degree of staining is high, and there is no silk fiber in the multi-fiber lining specified in GB/T 5713-1997. The difference in water fastness test conditions is also an important reason for the difference in test results. The staining grades of color fastness to sweat stains also vary greatly. In addition to the difference in test conditions stipulated in the standard, there is also an important reason. For this reason, mulberry silk samples are more acid-resistant but not alkali-resistant, so in alkaline sweat The fastness is poor, and AATCC 15-2007 only tests the fastness of samples in acidic sweat. There are many samples with the same color fastness to rubbing in Table 2, mainly because there is little difference between the test conditions of GB/T 3920-2008 and AATCC 8-2007, but it cannot be said that all samples have the same color fastness grade according to GB/T 3920-2008 and AATCC 8. —2007 test results are consistent.
6Conclusion
The color fastness standards GB/T series and AATCC series are very different. The same sample is tested according to different standards, and the results are different. The differences between water color fastness GB/T 5H3-1997 and AATCC 107-2007 are mainly in the test size, lining type, constant temperature time, etc. Among them, the constant temperature time has a large difference, which is 4 h and 18 h respectively. The differences between the color fastness standard to perspiration GB/T 3922-1995 and AATCC 15-2007 are mainly in the test size, type of lining, sweat composition and pH value, liquor ratio, constant temperature time, etc. Among them, the pH value of sweat has a large difference, GB/T 3922-1995 stipulates that the two sweat pH values are 5.5 and 8.0 respectively, and AATCC 15-2007 stipulates that the sweat pH value is 4.3. There is not much difference between the color fastness standard GB/T 3920-2008 and AATCC 8-2007. The main reason is that the moisture content of the rubbing cloth is high. However, it cannot be said that the test results of all samples according to GB/T 3920-2008 and AATCC 8-2007 are the same. consistent.
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