Functional finishing process</p
1．拒水(water—repellenting)
用化学拒水剂处理，使纤维的表面张力降低，致使水滴不能润湿表面的工艺过程称之为拒水整理，又称透气性防水整理。适用于雨衣、旅游袋等材料。织物的拒水整理 效果还与织物的组织结构有关。经过拒水处理的织物仍能保持其透气性。但不同的拒水整理剂对纤维的适用性和整理后的拒水效果、耐水洗、干洗、摩擦、耐久性等 均有所不同。
拒水整理按拒水效果的耐久性能，可分为半耐久性和耐久性两种。前者处理简便，价格低廉，主要用于棉、麻织物，也可用于丝绸和合纤织物。后者主要用于棉、麻织 物。如用有机硅拒水整理剂则不仅适用各种纤维织物，使织物具有良好而且较耐洗的拒水性能，并能增加织物的撕破强度，改善织物的手感和缝纫性能。
2．拒油(oil-repellenting)
用拒油整理剂处理织物，在纤维上形成拒油表面的工艺过程称为拒油整理� The oil-repellent surface tension of the finished fabric is lower than the surface tension of various oils, making the oil bead-like on the fabric and difficult to penetrate into the fabric, thus producing an oil-repellent effect. The fabric that has been treated with oil-repellent finish is both water-repellent and has good breathability �主要用于高级雨衣和特种服用材料� �<br /
3．防静电(antistaticing)
纤维、纱线或织物在加工或使用过程中由于摩擦而带静电，给后道工序和服装穿着带来困难和麻烦。防静电整理是用化学药剂施于纤维表面，增加其表面亲水性，以防 止在纤维上积聚静电的工艺过程。纤维积聚静电与其吸湿性有关。例如合成纤维的吸湿性很低，表面电阻高，因而容易积聚静电。为了改变这种状况，可采用亲水性 物质处理，提高纤维表面的吸湿性，降低表面比电阻。
4．易去污(soil–releaseing)
易去污整理是使织物表面的污垢容易用一般洗涤方法除去，并使洗下的污垢不致在洗涤过程中回污的工艺过程� �织物在穿着过程中，由于吸附空气中的尘埃和人体排泄 物以及沾污而形成污垢� �特别是合成纤维及其混纺织物，容易带静电吸附污垢，并由于表面亲水性差，洗涤中水不易渗透到纤维间隙，污垢难以除去� �又因织物表面 具亲油性，所以悬浮在洗涤液中的污垢很容易重新沾污到纤维表面，造成再沾污� The basic principle of increasing the ease of stain removal of synthetic fibers and their blended fabrics is to use chemical methods to increase the hydrophilicity of the fiber surface and reduce the surface tension between the fiber and water. It is best that the hydrophilic layer on the surface can expand after being wetted. This generates mechanical force so that dirt can automatically leave �其方法是在织物表面浸轧一层亲水性的高分子材 料� �易去污整理后，还可增加织物的抗静电性，穿着舒适，手感柔软，但织物的撕破强度有所下降� �<br /
5．防霉防腐(rot ptoofing)
在 湿热气候条件下，纺织品含有浆料和脂肪等物质时，微生物很容易繁殖，细菌、放线霉、霉菌所分泌的酶能把纤维分解为它们的食料而造成纤维损伤。防霉防腐整理 一般是在纤维素纤维织物上施加化学防霉剂，以杀死或阻止微生物生长。为了防止纺织晶在贮藏过程中霉腐，可使用对产品色泽和染色牢度都无显著影响，对人体健 康也比较安全的水杨酸等防霉剂处理。对于露天条件下使用的纤维素纤维纺织晶，可以用比较耐水洗淋的环烷酸铜盐类防霉剂进行浸轧处理。
6．防蛀(moth proofing)
毛 织物易受虫蛀，蛀虫的幼虫在生长的过程中是以毛纤维为食料的。早的防蛀方法是在贮藏毛织物时放人樟脑或萘，利用它们升华产生的气体驱除蛀虫，防虫效力不 高，且不持久。染整生产中常用的防蛀整理是对毛织物进行化学处理，毒死蛀虫，或使羊毛纤维结构产生变化，不再是蛀虫的食粮，从而达到防蛀目的。现常用一 些含氯的有机化合物为防蛀剂。其优点是五色无臭，对毛织物有针对性，比较耐洗又无损于毛织物的风格和服用性能，使用方便，对人体安全性高。
7．阻燃(flame—retardaning)
纺 织品经过某些化学晶处理后遇火不易燃烧或一燃即熄，这种处理过程称为阻燃整理。纺织品的燃烧是一个非常复杂的过程，它们的易燃性除了纤维的化学组成以外还 和织物结构以及织物上染料等物质的性质有关。阻燃剂通常为含有磷、氮、氯、溴、锑、硼等元素的化合物。其主要作用是：改变纤维着火时的反应过程，在燃烧条 件下生成具有强烈脱水性的物质，使纤维碳化而不易产生可燃的挥发性物质，从而阻止火焰的蔓延。阻燃剂分解产生不可燃气体，从而稀释可燃性气体��It acts as a shield for the air or inhibits the burning of flames. The flame retardant or its decomposition product melts and covers the fiber to shield it, making the fiber less likely to burn or preventing the carbonized fiber from continuing to oxidize.
8．涂层(coating)
在织物表面涂覆或粘合一层高聚物材料，使其具有独特的外观或功能的工艺过程称之为涂层整理� �经涂层整理的织物无论在质感还是性能方面往往给人以新材料之感� �涂布的高聚物称为涂层剂(或浆)，而粘合的高聚物称为薄膜� �涂层整理的代表织物有防羽绒、防水透湿、遮光绝热、阻燃、导电以及仿皮革等织物� �各 种纤维材料的性质和织物用途不同，相应的整理工艺也不同� �其原则是发挥优点，改善缺点，从而达到织物所需的风格� �例如，棉、麻织物为了增加光泽，减少织物 的缩水率，保持服装的尺寸稳定性并防止起皱现象，织物可进行防缩、抗皱整理� Silk fabric is the queen of fibers due to its pleasing natural luster and slender, soft and smooth feel. In order to prevent its excellent qualities from being damaged during the finishing process, silk fabrics are usually made to improve their tendency to wrinkle. Performance is the main focus. In addition, because silk fibers are relatively delicate, special attention should be paid to using moderate mechanical and chemical strength when dyeing and processing. Among many fabrics, none is more dependent on post-finishing processing than wool fabrics. In addition to using anti-felting and moth-proofing methods to improve the properties of wool fabrics such as shrinkage and moth-eaten properties, wool fabrics are often finished to obtain various styles. and high-quality fabrics, such as textured fabrics, woolen fabrics and suede fabrics in woolen fabrics, etc. �相应的整理工艺有洗呢、煮呢、缩绒、起毛、剪毛、蒸呢、压呢等� �粘胶纤维织物 主要改善其易起皱、缩水率大的性能� �而合成纤维织物在改善其热收缩性和吸湿透气性的同时，可利用纤维的热收缩性对织物进行轧纹等整理� �此外，除常用的整理 之外，各类织物可根据特殊的外观风格和功能要求的需要，选择相应的整理工艺�
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