At present, there are more and more denim clothing on the market that “looks like denim but feels very good to the touch” or clothing that “looks like casual style, but upon careful analysis, it evolved from denim production”, and the feel or comfort requirements are They are becoming more and more important in the production of denim. They use design and various processing methods to make denim fabrics and denim clothing conform to the trend of comfort and leisure. They also have the unique “charming expressive color” of denim clothing. �因此，我们有必要对牛仔面料的手感整理进行一些分析研究，提出牛仔布手感整理的概念，总结实践生产过程中的一些手感整理的做法� �</p
The hand finishing of denim is to use design, physics, chemistry, machinery and other methods to make denim fabrics or Denim clothing achieves the feel required by the fashion trends of the time In the previous traditional denim, stiffness, roughness, and wildness were the basic characteristics of its feel. At that time, it was even considered that the jeans produced could “naturally stand upright on the ground” as a good denim effect. Thick yarn, high density, and heavy Beating up and stiffening are inevitable requirements for traditional denim production At present, the trend of “casual, comfortable and casual” is prevalent. Soft feel, comfortable and environmentally friendly clothing, delicate style, stress relief, and personalized features… have become the mainstream. Denim products are more dazzling and diverse, among which soft Products that have a skin-friendly feel without losing the basic characteristics of denim have become an important theme direction. �手感整理能够提高低端布料的质量，更能提升中高档布料的价值� �</p
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1. Design the feel from changes in denim yarn and fabric weave specifications</p
The rise of ring spinning is the beginning of the soft feel of denim. Due to the difference in yarn structure, under the same weave specifications, the fabric produced by ring spinning is softer and has a better feel than the fabric produced by open-end spinning. , currently, a large Denim, especially mid-to-high-end denim, uses ring spinning. At the same time, in the field of coarse-count yarns, there is a trend of siro spinning replacing ordinary ring spinning. Such denim has clearer textures and a grainy effect on the fabric surface. Better without losing the good feel �</p
Three up and down left (right) oblique, two up and down, broken twill (mesh), and plain weave are still the main structural structures of denim. Softer satin weaves and small jacquard weaves are also used. Although many customers consider the current denim The “mixture of dragons and snakes” in cloth yarns puts forward requirements for the cloth weight per unit area of denim before and after washing, but there are not many thick and heavy high-weft-density products. Therefore, the dominant position in heavy denim weaving, represented by imported Picano looms, has been shaken. Manufacturers with medium and high counts, moderate density, and rapid variety changes that mainly focus on yarn-dyed weaving are becoming more and more popular in the production of medium and high-end denim. Lai Yue takes the initiative, which is closely related to the comfortable feel of denim, casual fashion, and environmental protection requirements. �</p
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2. The role of mercerization in improving the feel of denim</p
牛仔布丝光整理的流行甚至成为牛仔布整理的基本工序是牛仔布柔软手感流行的分水岭� The basic process of denim mercerization is: “denim gray fabric – brushing – singeing – desizing – mercerization – pre-shrinking”. Due to the thicker yarn count of denim and the lower grade of cotton, the hairiness of the cloth surface , neps and impurities are relatively large, after mercerizing This situation is greatly improved. At the same time, according to the action mechanism of caustic soda on cotton fibers, it not only improves the gloss of the cloth surface and clears the texture of the cloth surface, but also greatly improves the feel of the denim. Among them, the three processes of “desizing, mercerizing, and preshrinking” are very important. The feel of denim is greatly improved Of course, in actual production, formulating different desizing, mercerizing, and preshrinking processes will produce different hand feeling effects. Therefore, the processes, methods, and techniques of the desizing, mercerizing, and preshrinking processes should be designed according to customer or market requirements. and adjustments to obtain appropriate mercerizing effects to meet market needs. This is also the key to different market situations for the same mercerizing processing factory. �一般而言，单双面烧毛及干净程度、退浆效果、碱浓度、时间、温度、水洗干净程度、预缩工艺这些因素对牛仔布丝光后手感效果影响较大� �</p
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3. Mechanical finishing of denim</p
Mechanical or physical methods are used to remove or flatten the hairiness, hair particles, particle protrusions and other substances on the surface of the fabric that affect the fabric’s feel, so as to make the fabric tissue soft or the yarn fiber structure loose (or tight and smooth), etc., thereby obtaining Soft or special feel �</p
Air beating: Let the air flow continuously act on the fabric according to certain requirements. Through the all-round contact between the air flow and the fabric, the air flow and the yarn, and the air flow and the fiber, the tissue structure of the fabric and the fiber structure of the yarn are changed and fine-tuned. , thereby obtaining a special and good feel �意大利的白卡拉尼（Biancalani）公司生产的爱乐（AIRO）手感整理设备是其典型的代表，该公司为生产出来的产品提供��AIRO HAND) feel hang tag.
气流作用避免了机械动力对面料造成的褶皱和摩擦，它对面料的作用力既强劲又柔和，不会对面料造成伤害� �通过调整工艺参数进行各类不同的工艺处理，从而可以获得不同的效果� In actual production, water and air flow are used by the combined machine. This natural “massage and rubbing of water and air flow” can fully penetrate into the fibers of the fabric, and can even make the fabric pass through the air flow. Moving in the cloth channel for continuous processing and finishing of fabrics �在面料传送过程中，气流包紧面料，使水和空气充分浸透面料，纤维的核心也能吃透气流和水分从而得到膨化，对于组织紧密、纱支粗、高捻度纱织的面料效果会更明显� �</p
Sanding (nap, fleece, etc.): The sanding applied to denim includes carbon sanding, emery sanding and carbon and emery combined sanding. Different processing is mainly selected according to the different processing requirements of denim. method, during the denim sanding process should Note: ① According to the structural characteristics of denim, it is best to test the left, middle and right strength of the fabric before sanding, and the requirements are as consistent as possible. Otherwise, the strength of the fabric will be inconsistent after sanding, causing problems in subsequent processing, especially for plain denim. and thin denim ② Denim is a colored fabric that enters the sanding process. Therefore, before sanding, you should check the left, center, right, and front and rear color differences (match differences) of the denim, and keep the strips. Do not enter the sanding process when the color difference is too large. Otherwise, the color difference will will be further expanded �③加强磨毛的操作管理，注意一些细微地方，例如：要求布车一定要与机器平行放置，确保进入机器内织物的张力均匀一致，等等� ④ Pay attention to the different characteristics of horizontal and vertical sanding machines. On the vertical sanding machine, if the fabric on the front of the large cylinder is discounted, the tension of the cloth feeding cylinder should be increased appropriately until the discount is eliminated to ensure The fabric is evenly wrapped on the large cylinder �如果后面出现打折现象要调整大锡林的张力� �总之，无论立式还是卧式，环绕磨毛辊或大锡林上的织物不能打折� ⑤ It is best to sand the denim in large rolls after rolling (blasting), otherwise wrinkles will easily occur, or the moisture content at both ends of the denim is different from that in the middle, which will cause the fabric surface tension to be uneven between the two ends and the middle, resulting in a sanding effect. There is a difference between the left, middle and right ⑥ Relatively speaking, the yarn used in denim is relatively poor. Although the yarn count will be thicker, the strength of the fabric will be lower. Therefore, to deal with the contradiction between the sanding effect and strong damage, it is necessary to ensure the strength of the fabric. Under the premise, consider the sanding effect �</p
为改善手感达到一些特殊的加工效果，在牛仔布后整理中，植绒、起绒、抓毛等加工方法也有应用，这里不再展开介绍。
轧光：牛仔布轧光通常与涂层一起配合来使用，有利改善涂层整理牛仔布的平整性和光泽，也有利于节约涂料� Generally speaking, pressing the fabric through a high-pressure roller (the rolling pressure is more than 30 tons) or pressing the fabric with a heated roller will squeeze the already thin fabric to the maximum extent and squeeze out the fabric (even fibers) The air in it completely covers the fabric, creating a very special feel. �在轧光机上用不同的花型辊与轧压辊配合，可以在牛仔布上轧压出不同的花型牛仔� �</p
“Cold wind” after washing the clothing: The post-processing (washing) process of denim clothing is actually the process of improving the appearance, color, and feel of the clothing, including fermentation washing, fermentation grinding, stone grinding, sanding, hand rubbing, Wrinkling, spraying, etc. will cause the feel of the clothing to change to varying degrees, some will become softer, and some will become harder. The “cooling” of clothing after washing is to obtain a softer feel. After denim clothing undergoes various washing treatments, it is continuously rotated in the tumbler of a dryer (not heated) to improve the feel of the clothing. In fact, , this is the application of original “air beating” and “mechanical beating” in clothing washing production �</p
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4. Chemical feel finishing of denim</p
将化学品用轧、压、喷、涂、洗等方法对牛仔布或牛仔服装进行处理，从而达到需要的手感� For example: use softening agent in the rolling tank before the dryer or setting machine; add an appropriate amount of softening agent or chemicals such as silicone oil to the foam-wetting solution in front of the pre-shrinking machine to obtain denim. The required feel or surface effect; some also use special foam finishing equipment to add color, coating (glue) or other chemicals to the denim surface or bottom, etc. �</p
牛仔布化学柔软整理中通常用到的柔软剂化学品主要有：脂肪酸酰胺、脂肪酸酰胺衍生物、有机硅柔软剂、改性有机硅、硅油、特种有机硅、等等。
In the actual production process, in order to obtain the desired feel of denim, several methods are usually used at the same time, especially when it comes to raw materials (such as using Tencel fiber, silk fiber), yarns, and fabric structures. It plays a fundamental role in improving the feel of denim. Coupled with the efforts in the finishing process of fabrics and garments, the quality of denim will be greatly improved.Feeling. With the improvement of the feel of denim and the improvement of wearing comfort, the number of people suitable for denim clothing will further expand, and the denim industry will usher in greater development!
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