Yarn (2): Basic knowledge of yarn

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　1. Calculation method of yarn count for spinning yarn
1. Unit
⑴、Customized length:
A. Tekes: The mass in grams of a yarn with a length of 1,000 meters at a given moisture regain is called the Tekes number.
Formula: Ntex=(G/L)×1000
In the formula: G is the weight of the yarn (grams), L is the length of the yarn (meters)
B. Denier: The mass in grams of 9,000-meter-long silk at a common moisture regain is called denier.
Formula: Nden=(G/L)×9000
In the formula: G is the weight of the silk (grams), L is the length of the silk (meters)
⑵、Custom weight production:
A. Male count (male count): the number of meters in length of 1 gram of yarn (silk).
Formula: Nm=L/G
In the formula: 1 is the length of the yarn (silk) (meters), G is the weight of the yarn (silk) (grams)
B. British count (English count): The number of 840 yards of length of 1 pound of spinning yarn.
Formula: Ne=(L/G)×840
In the formula: L is the length (yards) of the yarn (silk), G is the weight (pounds) of the yarn (silk).
2. Unit conversion
A． Special number Ntex and imperial number Ne
Ne=C/Ntex (C is a constant, chemical fiber is 590.5, cotton fiber is 583. If it is a blended chemical fiber fabric yarn, it can be calculated based on the mixing ratio, such as: T/JC (65/35) 45S spinning yarn C=590.5 *65%+583*35%=588, then calculate according to the formula)
B. Imperial count Ne and metric count Nm
Pure chemical fiber: Ne=0.5905Nm Pure cotton: Ne=0.583Nm
Blended chemical fiber fabric yarn: such as T/JC (65/35) 45SNe= (0.5905*65%+0.583*35%) Nm
3. Special number Ntex and metric Nm
Ntex×Nm=1000
4. Special number Ntex and denier Nden
Nden=9*Ntex
2. Twist and twist coefficient
1. Twist: the number of twists per unit length of spinning yarn. The Ttex (number) twist of cotton yarn and cotton-type chemical fiber spinning yarn is expressed in terms of the number of twists within 10cm of the length of the spinning yarn; the British count system twist Te is expressed in 1 inch of twist Expressed as number of times. The twist Tm of worsted woolen yarn and chemical fiber filament is expressed in terms of the number of twists per meter. The relationship between the above expression methods is:
Ttex=3.937Te=Nm/10 Te=0.254Ttex=0.0254Tm
There are two types of twist: Z twist and S twist. After the fibers in a single yarn or the single yarn in a strand are twisted, the twisting direction is from bottom to top and from right to left, which is called S twist; the direction of twisting from bottom to top and from left to right is called Z twist.
The way to express the twist of the strand, the first letter indicates the twist direction of the single yarn, and the second letter indicates the twist direction of the strand. For strands that have been twisted twice, the first letter indicates the twist direction of the single yarn, the second letter indicates the initial twist twist direction, and the third letter indicates the complex twist twist direction. For example, the single yarn is Z twisted and the initial twist is S. Twisted and re-twisted strands are Z-twisted, and the twist direction is represented by ZSZ.
2. Twist coefficient
Special twist coefficient αtex=Ttex*Ntex1/2
British twist coefficient αe=Te/Ne1/2
Metric twist coefficient αm=Tm/Nm1/2
The relationship between the special twist coefficient αtex and the imperial twist coefficient αe is:
αtex=Ttex*Ntex1/2=Te/2.54*10*5831/2*Ne1/2 (583 is the coefficient of pure cotton varieties. If it is blended chemical fiber fabrics or chemical fiber yarns, please refer to the special number and the imperial conversion constant C changes)
3. Strength of spinning yarn and breaking strength of single yarn
Single yarn strength: The force required to break a single spinning yarn is called single yarn strength or single yarn strength. The unit is Newton (N), Centinewton (CN).
Single yarn breaking strength: The ratio of single yarn strength P and spinning yarn number Ntex. The unit is Km or cN/tex
IV. Standard weight
The weight of the fabric material at the public moisture regain or the public moisture content is called the “standard weight”
The relationship between the standard weight of fabric materials and the weighing weight under actual moisture regain is:
Standard weight = weighed weight * (100 + official moisture regain) / (100 + actual moisture regain)
Calculation of standard weight in production. The material is often dried first, and then calculated based on the dry weight. The calculation formula is as follows:
Standard weight = material dry weight * (100 + official moisture regain) / 100
5. Characteristic indicators of hairiness of spinning yarn
The hairiness characteristic indicators of spinning yarn include: the total number of hairiness roots N, the total hairiness length L, the average hairiness length L?, hairiness index η, etc.
The total number of hairiness N refers to the cumulative number of hairiness on one side of the yarn body within the unit length (roots/m); the total length of hairiness refers to the total length of hairiness within the unit length of the spinning yarn (mm/m), that is:
L=N×L?
The hairiness index η refers to the number of hairy roots (roots/m) that extend beyond the set length on one side of the yarn per unit length. Spinning Yarn (2): Basic Knowledge of Spinning Yarn

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