Qian’an embroiderers’ textile and homespun cloth making skills: traditional old homespun cloth “weaves” a new life
As the New Year approaches, the “Embroidery Girl Handicraft Workshop” in Gaoyinpu Village, Yangdianzi Street, Qian’an City becomes increasingly busy. In the newly put into use exhibition hall, the clicking sound of the loom can be heard endlessly. Between the warp and weft, colorful cotton threads are woven into homespun cloth, flowing happily like a rainbow. Exquisite bedding, bags, jewelry and other handmade homespun New Year goods are being produced at an intensifying pace and are being shipped by express delivery to all parts of the country. In the evening, the “Embroidery Lady Handicraft Workshop” started live broadcast online again. The embroiderers are very clever but a bit shy in front of the camera.
In recent years, Gaoyinpu Village has led villagers to increase their income and become rich, and promoted local women’s employment entrepreneurship. The two committees of the village have used the village’s textile culture to adopt the “company + cooperative + farmer household” approach. ” model, the “Embroidery Mother’s Handicraft Workshop”, which is collectively held and participated by all the people, has been established. It uses traditional methods to weave homespun cloth and produce bedding, bags and other handmade fabrics, allowing villagers to enjoy the benefits brought by the collective economy, and also making “Embroidery Women” “Niang Handicraft Workshop” has become a beautiful business card of Gaoyinpu Village.
Gaoyinpu Village has a long history of textile craftsmanship. In the Qing Dynasty, local homespun textile technology reached its peak. At that time, every household’s spinning wheel was ringing, every household’s loom was humming, and there were more than a dozen households making cloth and tailors. It is said that in the early years of the Republic of China, Zhang Shen, a villager in Gaoyinpu, established a handicraft workshop. He led a donkey and shook a rattle to the village every day to pick up the work. Later, Zhang Shen accepted two apprentices. One was Fu Yun from Guantou Mountain in Dawuli Township. Feng, one is Zhang Guofan from this village. During the Anti-Japanese War, the Eighth Route Army of East Hebei Province sent Fu Yunfeng to organize dyers and women to establish a quilt factory in Guayunshan District, Dawuli, in order to provide military supplies and logistical support for the base area, making outstanding contributions to the Anti-Japanese War. During the people’s commune period, the first production team in the village arranged for Zhang Guofan to set up a team-run corporate handicraft workshop. At that time, there were more than 100 women weaving in the handicraft workshop.
Zhang Yulan, the oldest embroiderer in the village, is over 90 years old this year and is the third generation inheritor after Zhang Guofan. When Zhang Yulan was young, she weaved cloth in a handicraft workshop, weaving 20 large cloth rulers (a large cloth ruler, one foot is equivalent to 90 centimeters) every day. She could weave quilt tops, mattress tops, and bed sheets. In addition to weaving, she also made pig shoes and cat shoes. shoes and other various realistic children’s shoes.
“I have watched my grandma spinning and weaving since I was a child. Making homespun cloth is not only interesting to me, but also has a special emotion.” Zhang Yulan’s grandson Zhang Zhifei is the contemporary inheritor of Xiu Niang’s homespun cloth. He was personally taught by Zhang Yulan and has already mastered traditional textile techniques. In the past, a loom could only weave four or five meters of cloth a day. After Zhang Zhifei’s innovative improvements, it can weave more than 10 meters a day.
“The Embroidery Lady’s homespun and homespun craftsmanship in Gaoyinpu Village is the fifth batch of representative projects of municipal intangible cultural heritage in Tangshan City. In the Embroidery Lady Handicraft Workshop Exhibition Hall, everyone can personally feel the beauty of the homespun and homespun craftsmanship. Let adults retrieve their memories and let children understand the past,” said commentator Wang Yang.
According to reports, the craftsmanship of embroiderers in weaving homespun cloth ranges from picking cotton threads to weaving cloth on the machine, through tie-up, elastic stitching, spinning, thread-making, chaotic threads, falling threads, warp threads, brushing threads, making heddles, and weaving. There are dozens of processes such as seeding, heddling, hoisting, bolting, weaving, and weaving. It uses more than 20 basic colors and is carefully designed to create more than 2,000 colorful patterns.
The entire exhibition hall is divided into textile area, operation area, finished product area and study experience area, realizing the entire process flow from cotton to homespun cloth production. In the textile area, several embroiderers wearing floral headscarves and floral aprons were weaving attentively. According to reports, these looms were purchased by cadres of the two village committees from Lulong, Qinglong, Qianxi and other places. The embroiderers working here are all women from Gaoyinpu Village. The youngest is 40 years old and the oldest is 73 years old. The embroiderer has a fixed monthly income, and there is also a home-based handicraft workshop where she can work at home. At present, the Embroidery Girl Handicraft Workshop has solved the employment problem for more than 120 women in this village.
In the operating area, various tools such as spinning wheels are placed, which can be used for fabrication, heddling, weaving, sewing and other technological processes. Wang Yang told reporters that many products are processed here.
There are more than 100 embroiderers in the “Embroidery Handicraft Workshop”. They use colorful cotton and pure cotton yarn as raw materials, and can weave and process more than 100 feet of home fabric every day. There are more than 100 handmade travel craft bags, 60 health care pillows, and 30 bed sheets and quilt covers. At the same time, scarves, bath towels, clothing, etc. can be customized according to customer needs, with average daily sales of 5,000 yuan. After reaching full capacity, it can attract 500 women to be employed, and can produce 400 pieces (sets) of handmade travel bags and various handmade leisure items every day, with an annual output value of 12 million yuan and a profit and tax of 2 million yuan. In 2017, in the “Tangshan Supply and Marketing Cup” tourism product competition, the products of “Embroidered Mother’s Handicraft Workshop” won the second prize and were identified as “Tangshan Tourism Recommended Products” by the Tangshan Municipal Tourism Bureau; “Embroidered Mother’s Handicraft Workshop” Won the title of “Top Ten Tourism Commodity Characteristics Enterprises in 2017”.
With the hot sales of products, businessmen and consumers continue to come to Gaoyinpu Village to inspect and visit. The two committees of the village have focused on traditional textile culture and aimed to expand the industrial chain integrating culture and tourism.The tourism industry is developed based on the two characteristics of “Embroiderer Handicraft Workshop” and Gaoyinpu Kitchen. Tourists can experience making noodle stalls, rolling cotton swabs, spinning threads, weaving, making fabric paintings, tie-dying, and batik. There are more than 10 experience projects, including papermaking, stone-milled soybean milk, etc. In recent years, the number of visitors has reached 160,000. The “Embroidery Lady Handicraft Workshop” has also been awarded the title of “Hebei Province Skillful Hands Poverty Alleviation Demonstration Base” and “National Women’s Advanced Collective for Contribution”. Honorary title. In 2020, Gaoyinpu Village achieved a collective economic income of 350,000 yuan.
The development of the collective economy has provided material guarantee for the rural revitalization of Gaoyinpu Village. In recent years, Gaoyinpu Village has continuously transformed the achievements of the collective economy into the well-being of villagers. It has paved and built nearly 20,000 square meters of roads, installed more than 100 street lights, planted more than 3,000 seedlings, and built a village square and a party building square. The village has a completely new look.
At present, the village is making an overall plan for the village’s 2,200 acres of village area, striving to invest 300 million yuan in three to five years to create a “recreational tourism, sightseeing experience, shopping and dining, production and picking” “Leizu Garden” cultural tourism business card has achieved leap-forward development of the collective economy.
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