The impact of the performance of fabrics and accessories on garment processing
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Fabric Accessories Garment Pattern Making
In order for suitable facial auxiliary materials to become clothing worn by people, they must also go through the processing and manufacturing process, and the processing and manufacturing technology must be formulated. It is also closely related to the performance of surface auxiliary materials.
1. Garment pattern making
When making garment patterns, how much relaxation should be done? In addition to the style and shape, it is also related to the thickness of the fabric, the softness and drape of the fabric, the tightness of the fabric structure, the tensile properties of the fabric, and the slippage of the fabric. The size of the seam allowance is also related to factors such as the thickness of the fabric and the tightness of the fabric structure.
2. Clothing cutting
When cutting clothing, the surface materials should be taken into consideration Shrinkage. Generally speaking, fabrics with good hygroscopicity, comfortable and breathable fabrics will shrink, such as cotton, linen, silk, wool, and regenerated fiber fabrics. The shrinkage rate is also related to the structure of the fabric. Fabrics with a loose structure will shrink more. Tight fabrics will shrink less.
When cutting clothing, you must also consider the direction in which the garment pieces are placed on the fabric (silk strands). Is it a straight strand? Silk locks? Or oblique silk locks? This is because the warp and weft directions of the surface auxiliary materials have different stretchability, fastness, drape and other special properties. When cutting clothing, the performance of the surface auxiliary materials must be consistent and consistent with the performance of the clothing. The design requirements of clothing must be consistent with the comfort of wearing the clothing, otherwise the clothing produced will not meet the requirements.
3. Garment sewing
When sewing clothing, the selection of sewing threads and stitches The determination of the size, the adjustment of the weight of the presser foot, etc. are all related to the surface and auxiliary materials of the garment. The thickness of the fabric, the smoothness and roughness of the surface, the tightness of the fabric, and the stretch performance of the fabric are all factors that affect the sewing process. In addition to matching the color and thickness of the sewing thread with the surface materials, the shrinkage rate of the sewing thread is also a factor that needs to be considered.
When sewing clothing, the amount of movement is often used to adjust the local shape. The amount of eating potential is also related to the material and structure of the fabric. For example, short fiber fabrics can absorb more than filament fabrics, fabrics with loose structures can absorb more than fabrics with tight structures, fabrics with thick texture can absorb more than fabrics with light texture, etc.
4. Clothing ironing
Different clothing surface and auxiliary materials have different Ironing temperature, ironing time and ironing method. For example, the ironing temperature of polypropylene fabric is very low, and it will shrink, soften, and melt when it exceeds 100°C; tussah silk fabric cannot be ironed with water spray, but must be dry ironed, otherwise it will leave water stains on the clothing. ; Fabrics with tight structures and dark colors should not be pressed for too long, as this may easily produce aurora; fabrics with velvet on the surface should not be pressed too hard, otherwise the velvet will be crushed, affecting the appearance of the garment; thin fabrics should be ironed at a slightly lower temperature and for a longer time Slightly longer; thicker fabrics require slightly higher temperatures for better ironing effects.
The seams on synthetic fiber fabrics can remain for a long time after being ironed and cannot be washed away; the seams on natural fiber fabrics will disappear after being washed and need to be ironed again. hot.
5. The relationship between clothing production and auxiliary materials
Production and production of clothing It must be based on the performance and characteristics of clothing surface auxiliary materials, understand the performance characteristics of different surface auxiliary materials, and adopt scientific and reasonable production processes, so that the produced clothing can meet the design requirements.
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