Characteristics and varieties of cotton fabrics

(1) Characteristics of cotton fabric
Cotton fabric refers to fabrics woven from cotton yarn or cotton and cotton-type chemical fiber blended yarn. It has the following characteristics:
1. It has strong hygroscopicity and a large shrinkage rate of about 4~10%.
2. Alkali-resistant but not acid-resistant. Cotton cloth is extremely unstable to inorganic acids, and even very dilute sulfuric acid will damage it. However, organic acids have a weak effect and have almost no destructive effect. Cotton cloth is more resistant to alkali. Generally, dilute alkali has no effect on cotton cloth at room temperature, but after the action of strong alkali, the strength of cotton cloth will decrease. Cotton cloth is often treated with 20% caustic soda solution to obtain “mercerized” cotton cloth.
3. Light resistance and heat resistance are average. Cotton cloth will be slowly oxidized in sunlight and atmosphere, causing its strength to decrease. Long-term high temperature will cause damage to cotton fabric, but it can withstand short-term high temperature treatment of 125~150℃.
4. Microorganisms have a destructive effect on cotton fabrics. Shown as intolerance to mold.
(2) Varieties of cotton fabrics
1. Pure cotton fabric
Pure cotton fabric is woven from pure cotton yarn. There are many kinds of fabrics with different designs and colors. It can be divided into original color cotton cloth, dyed cotton cloth, printed cotton cloth and yarn-dyed cotton cloth according to the dyeing method; it can also be divided into plain weave cloth, twill cloth and forged weave cloth according to the fabric structure.
⑴ Unbleached cotton cloth. Cotton cloth that has the color and luster of natural cotton fiber without bleaching, printing and dyeing processing is called unbleached cotton cloth. It can be divided into market cloth, coarse cloth and fine cloth according to the thickness of the yarn count. Their characteristics are: thick cloth body, smooth cloth surface, strong and durable, and large shrinkage rate. It can be used as sheet fabric, blank accessories or shirt fabrics.
⑵Poplin Poplin is the main variety of cotton and has a silk style. Its texture is fine and shiny, the cloth body is soft and smooth, it is stiff and comfortable to wear, and it is woven with plain weave. The structural characteristics of poplin are: the warp density is about twice as much as the weft density, the exposed area of the warp on the cloth is more than the weft, and its raised parts form obvious diamond-shaped particles on the cloth. In addition, the yarn count used is of high quality. , so the cloth surface has clear texture, full particles, smooth and tight texture. However, poplin fabric has a major disadvantage, that is, garments sewn with it are prone to longitudinal cracks. This is because the warp and weft densities of poplin are very different, and the strength between warp and weft yarns is unbalanced, causing the warp strength to be nearly twice as much as the weft strength. the result of.
⑶ General gray fabrics must be singed before dyeing to make the cloth surface smooth and smooth. However, wool blue cloth does not need to be singed before dyeing. After dyeing, the cloth surface retains a layer of fluff. Therefore, it is called “mao” blue cloth. Wool blue cloth is generally dyed with indigo dye, which has good color fastness and generous color, and it looks more and more brilliant with washing. There are many specifications: wool blue coarse cloth, wool blue fine cloth, etc. Generally suitable for outerwear, it is sold throughout urban and rural areas.
⑷Plain cloth, bleached cloth, and printed cloth. This type of cloth is made of various white gray cloths that are printed, dyed, and bleached. According to different colors, it can be divided into plain cloth, bleached cloth and printed cloth.
a. Plain cloth: refers to cotton fabric of a single color, which is usually piece-dyed after mercerization. Such as: Shilin blue, Fanlaming blue and other different colors of cloth.
b. Bleached cloth: A cotton fabric with a white appearance obtained by bleaching the original color gray cloth. It can be divided into two types: mercerized cloth and natural cloth. The surface of mercerized cloth is smooth and shiny, and feels smooth; the surface of this glossy cloth is dull and shiny, and feels rough. Bleached cloth is generally used to make underwear, bed sheets, etc.
c. Printed cloth: It is made of white gray cloth with low yarn count and processed by printing. There are two types: mercerized and natural gloss. This type of cloth has different appearance effects depending on the printing method. Most of them are brightly colored on the front and darker on the back. Suitable for making women’s and children’s clothing.
⑸Yam-dyed fabrics are various fabrics woven with dyed or bleached yarns combined with changes in structure and pattern. It is more three-dimensional than ordinary printed cotton, has rich and colorful patterns, even dyeing, and high color fastness. Common varieties include threaded cloth, striped cloth, denim cloth, etc.
a. Woolen fabric: It is a general term for cotton wool-like fabrics. It uses dyed yarn as raw material and is woven according to different patterns and organizational structures to have a woolen-style appearance. It can be divided into two categories: men’s line and women’s line.
Men’s thread: Generally, 28texX2, 18texX2, and 14texX2 strands are used as warp and weft yarns, and are woven with twill weave. The flower patterns are mostly hidden stripes, clear stripes, and plain colors, which are suitable for men and middle-aged and elderly people to use as clothing materials. The main varieties are as follows:
Pin pattern weaving: woven using 14texX2 (42”/2) yarn as warp and weft yarns.
Kangle weaving: using double-strand floral yarn as warp yarn and single-color yarn as weft yarn, using strip shape Weaved in a twill weave.
Ramie: Use double strands of floral thread as the warp yarn, solid color thick yarn as the weft, woven in a twill weave.
David’s weave: use three strands of floral thread as the warp yarn, single color thick yarn The count yarn is used as the weft yarn, and is woven with a large herringbone twill weave.
Herringbone weave: Three strands of floral yarn are used as the warp yarn, and the solid-color thick count yarn is used as the weft yarn, and it is woven with a small herringbone twill weave.
Breeches: flower with double strandsThreads are used as warp yarns, and solid-color thick yarns are used as weft yarns. It is woven with a changing sharp twill weave.

Source: “China Textile Network”

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