Characteristics and varieties of wool fabrics
(1) Characteristics of wool-type fabrics
Wool-type fabrics refer to fabrics made from wool, rabbit hair and other animal hairs and wool-type chemical fibers as the main raw materials, including pure spinning, blended spinning and interwoven fabrics. Commonly known as woolen cloth. Wool fabric is a well-known high-end clothing fabric and has many advantages.
1. Woolen fabrics are mostly made of wool fibers, so they have good hygroscopicity and excellent dyeing properties, but their colors are mostly dark.
2. Wool fabric has high elasticity, low thermal conductivity and good thermal insulation performance. It is also related to the natural curl, fluffiness and high air content of wool fiber.
3. Wool fabrics are acid and alkali resistant. Wool is a protein fiber, so it is relatively stable to acids. Generally, dilute acids have no destructive effect on it, and it will not cause adverse effects in organic acids. However, it is sensitive to alkali. It can be boiled in 5% caustic sodium solution for a few minutes. Make it dissolve. This can be used to identify woolen fabrics.
4. Wool fabrics are not resistant to high temperatures. If left for a long time at a temperature of 100~105℃, the fibers will be damaged, the color will turn yellow, and the strength will even decrease. The burning performance of wool fabric is the same as that of silk fabric, but it has a singeing smell, and the ashes after burning are loose black balls that can be pressed into powder.
5. Wool fabrics have poor light resistance, and ultraviolet rays have a damaging effect on wool, so they should not be exposed to the sun.
6． Wool fabrics have poor moth-proof properties and are easily eaten by moths, resulting in reduced strength and even holes in the fabric.
(2) Varieties of wool-type fabrics
Wool-type fabrics are very rich in varieties and can be classified. According to the raw materials used, they include all-wool fabrics, wool-containing blended fabrics, and wool-type chemical fiber fabrics. , according to the production process and appearance characteristics, there are worsted woolen fabrics, woolen woolen fabrics, plush wool and camel hair, etc. Some specific varieties of these types are introduced below.
1. Worsted wool
Worsted wool is woven from combed wool yarn. Its texture is tight, the surface is smooth and clean, the texture is clear, and it is elastic. It is a high-end clothing fabric. The main varieties are: gabardine, serge, tweed, Verridin, Palis, women’s tweed, breeches, tweed, etc.
⑴ Gabardine is the main product of worsted woolen fabric. It is a twill fabric made of 64 woolen strips spun into strands and 2/2 twill weave. Since the warp density is twice as large as the weft density, the twill grain has an inclination of about 630. The surface is smooth and flat, the grain is clear, the body is thick and tight, has body and elasticity, and has high strength. Commonly used as clothing material for suits, uniforms, etc.
⑵Serge is woven with 2/2 twill weave. Compared with gabardine, its warp and weft density is basically the same, and the yarn count is thin, so the fabric has a twill pattern of about 500. The grain interval is wider than gabardine, and the surface is flatter than gabardine. Serge can be subdivided into yarn serge and half-thread serge according to the yarn count. Serge and full line of serge etc. It has the characteristics of soft surface gloss, smooth hand feel, elasticity, uniform yarn count, and beautiful appearance. Used the same as gabardine.
⑶ Shewei is one of the style products among worsted clothing fabrics. It uses combed wool yarn spun from mixed-color tops as warp and weft yarns, and is woven with a 2/2 twill weave. It is a mixed color fabric, the color is mainly gray, brown and other mixed colors, and it is divided into three types: wool surface, smooth surface and blended woolen fabric. It has a flat surface, natural luster, softness and elasticity, warm hand feel, and a uniform floral style in appearance. Shewei is similar to serge, but the difference is that serge is single-sided. Suitable for making spring and autumn men’s and women’s suits, tunic suits, jackets and other clothing.
⑷Tweed is a fabric with many varieties among worsted wool fabrics. The following types of tweed fabrics are commonly used in clothing:
a. Single-sided tweed: a medium-thick tweed product, generally made of 66-count pure wool or mixed with 55% polyester, spun into twill variations of combed wool yarn Tissue fabric. Its tweed surface has concave and convex stripes or patterns, and the front and back patterns are obviously different. It feels thick and elastic. The whole wool tweed has a soft luster and is smooth. The blended tweed is shrink-resistant and wear-resistant. The garment has good shape retention and is suitable for making suits. In particular, high-end toothpick strip tweed is a special variety of single-sided tweed and is very popular in the international market.
b. Thin tweed: A light and thin product in tweed. It is a light-colored tweed fabric woven with a plain weave, and the warp and weft yarns have a larger twist. It has the characteristics of light texture, smooth hand feeling, comfortable and crisp wear, and is an ideal summer shirt and trousers fabric.
c. Medium-thick tweed: thicker than thin tweed, with thicker yarn count, and generally twill or twill variation weave. It has the characteristics of bright color, smooth and elastic surface. For example, Hailimeng, dress tweed, etc. all belong to the medium-thick tweed category. They are suitable for making spring and autumn clothing, suits, skirts, etc.
⑸Fan Li Ding Fan Li Ding and Palis are both traditional light worsted wool materials. Verlitin is a plain weave fabric woven from combed wool yarn with a large twist. It has the characteristics of fine texture, lightness, smoothness and elasticity. It feels slightly softer and waxier than Palis, and is mostly in light colors, while Palis is a mixed-color fabric. Suitable for summer skirts, trousers and other fabrics.
⑹ Women’s tweed, also known as women’s tweed, is made of plain or twill weave and its variations and jacquard weaves made of combed single yarn or strands. It has the characteristics of fine and soft texture, lightness and elasticity, clear appearance and pattern, bright and elegant color, rich variety and strong adaptability. Suitable for making all kinds of women’s clothing and fashion.
⑺ Breeches are a medium-heavy variety of worsted wool fabric and are traditional high-end clothing materials. Take 3/1 Twill weave is a sharp twill fabric with a twill pattern with an inclination angle of about 700. It is called “breeches” because it was often used as trousers for horseback riding and hunting. Breeches are characterized by thick texture, smooth surface, thick twill on the front, flat grain on the back, and a firm and elastic feel. Mainly military green, so it is often used as military uniforms and hunting clothing materials.
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