Characteristics and varieties of silk fabrics
(1) Characteristics of silk fabrics
Silk fabrics mainly refer to pure, blended or interwoven textiles made of silk as raw materials. They have been widely used because of their unique and excellent wearability. Use, its main features are as follows:
1. Silk fabric has good strength and elasticity, but poor wrinkle resistance.
2. Silk fabric has good hygroscopicity, dyeability and luster, and the dyed fabric has bright colors and bright luster. Its moisture content can reach 11~12%.
3. Silk fabric is acid and alkali resistant. It has certain stability to inorganic acids (concentrated inorganic acids can hydrolyze silk) and is sensitive to alkali reactions, but is more stable than wool. Use neutral or weakly acidic detergent when washing.
4. Silk fabric has the same burning properties as wool and emits a singeing smell (because both are protein fibers). The heat resistance is higher than cotton and woolen, and it is almost unaffected at 120℃.
5. Silk fabrics have poor light resistance, so pay attention to sun protection to avoid yellowing.
6． Silk fabric has better fungal resistance than cotton, woolen and viscose.
(2) Varieties of Silk Fabrics
Silk fabrics are high-end clothing materials, mainly made of natural silk fibers and various rayon and synthetic fiber filaments. It has the characteristics of softness, smoothness, bright luster, etc. It is comfortable, gorgeous and noble to wear. It is rich in variety and complete in variety, and can be classified according to raw materials, and can also be distinguished according to organizational structure and appearance characteristics.
1. Classification by raw materials
Silk fabrics can be roughly divided into four categories according to raw materials: real silk, rayon silk, synthetic fiber silk, interwoven and blended silk.
⑴Real silk is a fabric woven from natural silk fibers. It can be divided into mulberry silk, tussah silk, silk silk, etc. Among them, mulberry silk refers to fabrics made of mulberry silk in both warp and weft, such as taffeta, crepe de chine, electric spinning, etc. It has the characteristics of soft luster, soft texture, smooth feel, comfortable and elastic wear, etc. Ideal summer high-end clothing fabric; tussah silk refers to silk woven with tussah silk in both warp and weft, such as tussah silk, tussah serge, etc. It has a flat and smooth texture, thick hand feel, good elasticity, and durability and other characteristics, it is cheaper than mulberry silk, but its luster and color are not as good as mulberry silk. Silk spinning refers to fabrics woven from spun silk, such as spun silk, cotton silk, etc. Although the raw materials of spun spun silk are the waste of silk weaving factories. Although the fabric has defects and waste silk, the fabric is still a high-end clothing fabric with the advantages of soft luster, soft hand, and good moisture absorption and drape. However, silk textile clothing has the disadvantage of being prone to yellowing and hairiness after wearing it. It is mostly used to make men’s and women’s shirts, pajamas, nightgowns, etc.
⑵ Rayon silk is a fabric woven from viscose rayon, such as Lixin silk, beautiful silk, glossy silk, etc. This type of fabric has the characteristics of light texture, smooth softness, and bright color. However, due to the low wet strength of viscose silk and poor elasticity, silk has low wet strength, poor elasticity, and is prone to wrinkles. The bottom edge of the clothes is easily deformed when worn. Human silk has a large shrinkage rate and should be pre-shrunk before cutting.
⑶Synthetic fiber fabrics are made of synthetic filaments, including polyester silk, brocade silk, polyester crepe, polyester georgette, etc. This type of fabric has the appearance of natural silk fabric, but its silk surface is flatter It is stiffer, has stronger body bones, better wear resistance and elasticity. The disadvantages are that the luster is not too soft, the moisture absorption and breathability are poor, and it feels stuffy when worn. The clothing is easy to peel off when sewing and wearing.
⑷Interwoven silk and blended silk: Imitation silk fabrics made of blending or interweaving rayon or natural silk with other fibers, such as brocade, feather yarn, thread, polyester-rich silk, etc. The characteristics of the fabric are determined by the nature of the participating fibers in the blend or interweave.
2. Classification according to the organizational structure and appearance characteristics
Silk fabrics are divided into fourteen categories according to the organizational structure and appearance characteristics, namely: spun, damask, satin, crepe, silk, silk, silk, silk, yarn, and Luo. , kudzu, brocade, wool, velvet. There are many varieties in each category, and the main varieties are introduced below.
⑴Textile refers to plain weave fabrics woven from mulberry silk, spun silk, rayon, etc. The warp and weft yarns are generally not twisted or weakly twisted. After the fabric is woven, it is then refined, dyed or printed. . Textile fabrics are light and thin in texture and have a smooth and dense surface. Common varieties include electric spinning, Hangzhou spinning, silk spinning, colorful grid spinning, Fuchun spinning, Huachun spinning, matt spinning, glossy spinning, etc.
a. Electric spinning: woven from mulberry silkworm raw silk. The texture is tight, fine and clean, the luster is fat and bright, the fabric body is light and smooth, more elegant and cooler than silk, and denser than yarn. It is suitable for making summer men’s and women’s shirts, skirts and sweater linings.
b. Hangzhou Fang: Named because it is produced in Hangzhou. It is made of mulberry silk silk and is woven into fabrics. There is no front or back side to the fabric. The silk body is rough and thick, soft to the touch, comfortable and cool to wear, and is the ideal material for summer shirts, skirts, trousers, etc.
c. Silk spinning: Silk fabric woven from pure silkworm silk. It has the characteristics of plump and soft texture, simple texture, soft luster, pleasant touch, and good moisture absorption and breathability. It is mainly used to make summer clothing, mostly for export.
d. Tussah silk spinning: made of tussah silk, similar to mulberry silk spinning. The texture is rich and waxy, and the hand feel is slightly rougher than mulberry silk, and the silk surface is slightly brown. It can be used as spring and autumn outer clothing material or decorative silk.
e. Fuchunfang: a textile fabric interwoven with viscose and rayon, divided into plain, printed and bleached varieties. Rich texture, soft to the touch, clothThere are thin horizontal strips on the surface (the reason is that the warp yarns are thin and the weft yarns are thick). Suitable for use as summer dress or quilt fabric, and can also be used as winter cotton fabric. Its disadvantages are poor wet strength, large shrinkage, and easy wrinkles. It must be pre-shrunk or graded before production
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