A perspective on the ethnic tie-dying process: tie-dyeing, dip-dying, vat removal, stitch removal, rinsing
“Tie-dyeing” is the use of needlework to tie various patterns on white cloth. It is a key process in the entire tie-dye production process. It is also a process exclusively undertaken by women and is very critical to the formation of tie-dye patterns. To tie flowers, first print the pattern on white cloth, and then tie the pattern according to the printed pattern. When stitching, the needle thread should be evenly tight, and different flowers have different stitching methods, so no mistakes can be made. After being sewn and tied, the fabric shrinks into clusters and balls of knotted fabric.
Dip dyeing is the second key process in the entire tie-dye production process. Zhoucheng used homemade indigo dip-dye tie-dye cloth, which is a cold dyeing method. First put water in the dye vat, add indigo, mix thoroughly with a dyeing stick, and then add an appropriate amount of auxiliary materials. When dip-dying fabrics, raw materials are often allocated according to the depth of the dyed fabric. Before dip dyeing, soak the fabric in clean water, then wring it out and put it into a dye vat for dip dyeing. Dyeing cloth with indigo requires repeated dip-dying many times. First, it is dried in the sun and then dip-dyed again. This process is repeated. The dip-dying process also varies depending on the color of the fabric. The color of dyed cloth is not only related to the number of dip-dyes, but also related to dip-dyeing technology, dye placement, drying, climate, etc. Before the second dip-dyeing, the dye must be prepared, which is commonly known as the “hair vat” among the people. At that time, indigo, water, etc. are put into the vat in proportion to allow it to ferment. After fermentation, appropriate amounts of auxiliary materials are added.
Taking out the vat is the third key process in the entire tie-dye production process. The dip-dyed fabric is taken out of the dye vat. At that time, the dyed fabric that has been repeatedly dip-dyed is placed on the dye vat. Drain the water on the dye stick, then wring it out and dry it in the sun. In addition to the dye vat, there is usually an auxiliary vat, which is slightly smaller than the dye vat. It is filled with clean water. When leaving the vat, it is usually passed through the auxiliary vat first. This prevents dye from staining the dyeing cloth and saves dye. After taking it out from the auxiliary tank and drying it, you can start the next process.
Removing stitches is the fourth key process in the entire tie-dye production process. After the dyed tie-dyed fabric is dried in the sun, the stitches can be removed. This process is not complicated, but you must be careful. Once the fabric is torn, all the previous efforts will be lost. Therefore, this process is mostly carried out by women who tie the flowers. They are familiar with the needle method and know where to start to remove the stitches. They can remove the stitches quickly and avoid damage.
Rinsing is the fifth key process in the entire tie-dye production process. Put clean water into a wooden vat (some are pools or water vats made of cement), put the disassembled tie-dyed cloth into it, and rinse it repeatedly. Rinsing seems simple, but in fact it depends on experience. It doesn’t work either if it’s not washed enough, or if it’s been washed too much. If the rinsing process is not mastered well, it will affect the quality of the tie-dyed fabric pattern. After rinsing and drying, the entire tie-dying process is completed.
Tie-dyeing is a kind of printing that uses threads or ropes to tie fabrics or pieces of clothing in various ways according to the effect of the design pattern, and then puts them into the dyeing solution. The tied part cannot penetrate into the dye to form a special natural pattern. Method is an ancient textile dyeing process in China. Dali calls it Geda flower cloth and Geda flower. The processing process is to fold and tie the fabric, or sew, twist and tie it, and then immerse it in color paste for dyeing. The dyeing uses isatis root and other natural plants, so it does not cause any harm to human skin. The use of various binding techniques in tie-dying is combined with a variety of dyeing techniques to produce varied patterns. Tie-dye has a history of about 1,500 years in China. The earliest extant object is the twisted printed silk from the Eastern Jin Dynasty. During the Tang Dynasty, when tie-dyeing reached its peak, it became fashionable for nobles to wear tie-dye clothes. During the Northern Song Dynasty, tie-dye production was complicated and labor-intensive, and the court once banned it, which led to the decline and even disappearance of tie-dye craftsmanship. However, ethnic minorities in the southwest border still retain this ancient skill. In addition to China, tie-dye craftsmanship is also practiced in India, Japan, Cambodia, Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia and other countries. In the 1970s, tie-dye became a popular handicraft and was widely used in clothing, ties, wall hangings, etc. The use of multiple tie-dying and multiple dyeing processes on the same fabric can develop the traditional tie-dye process from a single color to a multi-color effect.
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