Semi-worsted wool: maximize fiber advantages
Recently, the China Wool Textile Industry Association, China Textile Machinery Industry Association and the Administrative Committee of Chengnan New District, Xining City, Qinghai Province jointly organized the 2007 National Innovative Wool Semi-combing Technology Seminar. At this meeting, many enterprise experts summarized their practical experience in the production of semi-worsted wool, which truly reflected the development status of the semi-worsted wool industry.
Transplanting flowers and grafting wood
The semi-worsted wool spinning process has strong adaptability to processing raw materials. Wool, cashmere, cotton, silk and various chemical fibers can be mixed in any ratio. Make a blend. Because of such advantages, many wool spinning manufacturers are working hard to explore methods of grafting and grafting, and use high-quality wool fiber more in the company’s product design.
“Take corduroy products as an example. As the market has higher and higher requirements for product quality, corduroy products mainly made of wool or containing cashmere and spun silk have been favored by customers. Semi-combed The development of wool spinning technology has made this demand possible.” Tao Haiyan, a R&D staff member of Jiangsu Sunshine Group, said at this meeting that the company has successfully designed unique, novel and fashionable semi-combed corduroy products using semi-worsted wool spinning technology .
The development of the semi-worsted wool spinning industry has been inseparable from other industries from the beginning. Its production equipment is a combination of wool spinning equipment and cotton spinning equipment, and the process flow has the characteristics of grafting new ideas onto each other. At this year’s semi-worsted wool spinning work conference, experts not only elaborated on the close relationship between semi-worsted wool spinning technology and wool spinning and cotton spinning, but also emphasized that the process route should be combined with silk spinning and linen spinning technology.
“The configuration of semi-worsted wool spinning production technology urgently needs to break the traditional thinking. Its equipment should take into account the processing of various performance raw materials and the needs of multiple varieties of technology for reasonable configuration. The performance of raw materials and product style are to a large extent It affects the development of semi-worsted wool spinning process route.” said Engineer Zhou Weizhong of Tongxiang Yide Textile Co., Ltd. in Zhejiang Province.
Multi-variety fiber blending has developed rapidly in recent years. This year, there are some new varieties, such as the development of three-component fiber blended fabrics such as milk silk, polyester and cashmere, Lisey, linen, brown cotton, Development of wool blended yarn, etc.
The art of balance
“Semi-worsted woolen craft design is actually an art of mastering balance.” An expert in semi-worsted woolen craftsmanship design This is how the craftsmanship and design of semi-worsted wool was described.
Zhou Weizhong proposed at this meeting that special attention should be paid to the balance point in the design of the semi-worsted wool spinning process route. This statement was recognized by many business experts attending the meeting. He gave an example of making a yarn blended with silk and viscose. The wet strength of silk is high. In order to prevent static electricity and enhance spinnability, some additives can be added to the silk fiber after it is wet. However, the wet strength of viscose fiber is very low. If the balance point of moisture regain is not properly grasped after mixing the two, a large amount of short lint will be produced during blending, and the quality indicators and product style of the yarn will be greatly affected.
The carding process is key in the production of semi-worsted wool spinning. It is necessary to master the balance point of carding and transfer for raw materials of different properties. For example, when spinning 85 to 15 silk cashmere, the strength of the silk is relatively large, and it is easy to form particles, requiring strong combing; the strength of cashmere is small, and the strength will be even lower after dyeing. After strong combing, it is easy to form a large amount of short velvet, resulting in yarn Hair loss, uneven dryness, etc. Experts attending the meeting emphasized that during the combing process, a balance principle must be mastered, that is, without excessively strong combing without removing particles.
The formulation of semi-worsted woolen spinning process requires a systematic concept, so its combining and roughing processes should be designed based on meeting the quality requirements of the subsequent spinning process, and a balance point of process design should be mastered. Taking 85 to 15 silk cashmere as an example, the silk fiber is generally cut to a length of 38~42mm. After carding, the length of the cashmere is generally 27~30mm. Therefore, when designing the process parameters of combining and roving, it is necessary to take both into account and find an optimal balance point so that the quality of the roving can meet certain process requirements.
Detailed control
Detailed control is an important focus of this meeting. In the design of semi-worsted wool spinning technology, the relationship between product quality and detail control appears to be even closer. It is not an exaggeration to describe this process as “details determine success or failure”.
Detailed control can reduce the generation of hair particles. Wool is a clump of fibers formed during spinning, carding and drafting. “During the spinning process, it is difficult to completely eliminate wool particles, especially in velvet products. But we can control it within a smaller range by optimizing the process to improve the appearance quality of the yarn.” From Lu Yin Jia Huanqin, an engineer at Yucheng Cashmere Textile Co., Ltd., an investment group, said. The company has paid great attention to details, from the selection of raw materials to the control of the front and back spinning processes.
Detailed control reduces the chance of linting and pilling of semi-worsted fabrics. Zhao Huitang, an engineer from Tai’an Kangpingna Wool Textile Group Co., Ltd., said that to solve the problems of fabric pilling and lint loss, in addition to controlling the quality of raw materials, it is also necessary to minimize damage to raw materials, so detailed control of process equipment is very important.
Zhao Huitang gave an example: they once took 90Australian wool strips (cut length 60mm) were used for comparative testing. Under the condition that the final carding effect remains unchanged, the average length of wool after carding with different spacing and speed ratios can vary by up to 5.42mm, and the short hair rate below 20mm can vary by 4.52%. It can be seen that there is great potential to control the details of process design to reduce fabric pilling and linting.
In the subsequent process of making semi-worsted fabrics, Jiangsu Sunshine Group repeatedly brushes and shears the hair, strictly controls the distance between the shearing knives, and ensures that the length of the hair feet is consistent, reducing the long fibers on the fabric surface and making it easier to wear during the wearing process. will not entangle with each other, thereby improving the pilling performance.
Wang Yingmei, engineer of Anhui Fuyang Huayuan Textile Co., Ltd., said that the quality control of semi-worsted woolen production must be continuously monitored and adjusted in time based on the raw material conditions of each variety.
According to the relevant person in charge of China’s wool spinning industry, industry standards for semi-worsted wool spinning technology are expected to be introduced in the near future, and product quality will be further effectively improved. AA
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