The biggest enemy of clothing longevity is breakage. Moreover, fabric strength is also a concern of upstream and downstream textile enterprises, which not only affects the quality of finished products, but also has an important impact on process processing. It may even affect product shipments. Today, the editor will take stock of various powerful testing indicators.
The assessment indicators of clothing strength are mainly divided into: fabric breaking strength, tearing strength, seam strength, degree of flaw, bursting strength and bursting strength. The assessment items and requirements for different products are also different.
Breaking strength
The breaking strength test is to stretch a fabric sample of specified size at a constant elongation speed until it breaks.
At present, the products that are used to assess the breaking strength of fabrics mainly include washed finishing clothing, denim clothing, and bedding.
There are two main testing methods: GB/T 3923.1-2013 “Textile Fabric Tensile Properties Part 1: Determination of Breaking Strength and Breaking Elongation (Strip Method)” and GB/T 3923.2-2013 “Textile Fabric Tensile Properties” Properties Part 2: Determination of breaking strength (grab sample method)”.
Tear strength
There are two commonly used testing methods for tearing strength: impact pendulum method and trouser-shaped specimen method.
The tearing strength test of the impact pendulum method is to fix the sample on the fixture, cut an incision on the sample, and release the pendulum at a position of large potential energy. When the movable fixture leaves the fixed fixture, the sample is torn in the direction of the incision. Tear, convert the work done to tear a certain length of fabric into tearing force. The test standard is GB/T 3917.1-2009 “Textiles – Fabric Tear Properties Part 1: Determination of Tear Strength by Impact Pendulum Method”. This method is mainly used for the detection of denim clothing in daily testing.
The tearing strength of the trouser-shaped specimen is tested by clamping the two legs of the trouser-shaped specimen so that the incision line of the specimen is in a straight line between the upper and lower clamps. Start the instrument to apply tensile force in the direction of the incision, record the tearing strength until the tear reaches the specified length, and calculate the tearing strength through the electronic device. The test standard is GB/T 3917.2-2009 “Textiles – Fabric Tear Properties Part 2: Determination of Tear Strength of Trouser-shaped Samples (Single Seam)”. This method is mainly used in daily testing for the detection of conventional products such as shirts and men’s and women’s suits.
Yarn resistance to slippage at woven fabric seams
The measurement of yarn slip resistance at seams of woven fabrics refers to folding a rectangular sample and sewing it along the width direction, then cutting along the crease, holding the sample with a holder, and applying force perpendicular to the direction of the seam. Tensile load measures the amount of slip produced when a specified load is applied.
In daily testing, the commonly used standard is GB/T 13772.2-2008 “Textiles – Determination of yarn slip resistance at seams of woven fabrics – Part 2: Constant load method”, which is mainly used for testing conventional woven fabrics.
When the finished garment is detected in this project, we will test the yarn slippage (also called the degree of flaw) at the seams of the garment in accordance with the requirements and methods specified in the corresponding product standards. Different product standards have different regulations on sample size, fixed load value, sampling location, and result determination. For example:
GB/T 2664-2009 “Men’s Suits and Coats” and GB/T 2665-2009 “Women’s Suits and Coats” stipulate that the applied load is
Fabric: (100±2)N, lining: (70±1.5)N
GB/T 18132-2008 “Silk Clothing” Regulations
Fabric: The applied load is (67±1.5)N for grammage >52g/m2, the applied load for satin with grammage ≤52g/m2 or >67g/m2 is (45±1.0)N, the applied load for lining is (70±1.5 )N.
Strong seams
The test of the seam strength of woven fabrics is to stretch a specimen of specified size (with a seam in the middle) at a constant elongation rate in the direction perpendicular to the seam until the seam is destroyed. Record the force required to achieve joint failure.
There are two common methods for testing the seam strength of woven fabrics:
GB/T 13773.1-2008 “Seam tensile properties of textile fabrics and their products – Part 1: Determination of seam strength by strip method” and GB/T 13773.2-2008 “Seam tensile properties of textile fabrics and their products” Part 2: Determination of joint strength by grab sample method》.
In addition, in some trousers product standards, such as single-clip garments, trousers, washed garments, denim garments, etc., the seam strength test of the crotch seam of trousers is slightly different from the test of other seams. The main test process is to take a 50mm×200mm sample from the arc of the back crotch seam of the finished pants with the tangent point as the center of the sample. Set the instrument distance to 100mm and the stretching speed to 100mm/min. Clamp both ends of the sample into the clamps respectively, with the suture located 1/2 between the two clamp lines, and start the instrument until the suture breaks. Calculate the average value of 3 samples and round it to 1N.
The test of the seam strength of some knitted products is to use clamps of specified size to clamp the middle part of the sample containing a seam, and apply a constant elongation rate along the horizontal or vertical direction of the sample seam until the The specimen breaks. The main test method is FZ/T 01031-2016 “Determination of seam strength and elongation of knitted fabrics and elastic woven fabrics – Grab sample method”�.
Break through the powerful
The test of bursting strength is to clamp the sample in a ring sample clamp on a fixed base. The spherical ejector pin vertically pushes against the sample at a constant moving speed, causing the sample to deform until it breaks. The burst is measured. Strong.
The testing standard is GB/T 19976-2005 “Textiles – Determination of bursting strength – Steel ball method”, which is mainly used for testing knitted products.
Bursting strength
The bursting strength test is to clamp the sample on an extensible diaphragm, and apply liquid pressure under the diaphragm to cause the diaphragm and sample to expand. The liquid volume is increased at a constant speed until the sample breaks, and the bursting strength and bursting expansion can be measured.
The test standard is GB/T 7742.1-2005 “Textiles – Burst Properties of Fabrics – Part 1: Determination of Burst Strength and Burst Expansion – Hydraulic Method”, which is mainly used for testing wool knitwear.
Points to note when conducting powerful testing
First of all, the humidity control treatment of the sample cannot be forgotten. All strength tests require pre-humidification, humidity conditioning and testing in accordance with GB/T 6529.
Secondly, choosing the test method is a prerequisite. Choosing the correct standards and test methods based on the characteristics of the product is a prerequisite.
Again, pay attention to the details of sampling. The sample selection should be representative, avoid wrinkles and selvage, and the sampling position should be more than 150mm away from the selvage. Every two samples should not contain the same warp or weft yarn, that is, the ladder method is used for sampling. The size of the specimen and the settings of the instrument should be strictly in accordance with the requirements of the standard.
Finally, it is important to determine whether the test results are valid. Determine whether the test results are valid according to the standard requirements. If the test results are discarded, resampling is required for testing. Special circumstances that occurred during the test should also be recorded.
Source: China Fiber Inspection Micro Platform
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