Why has Vietnam become a destination for Chinese clothing production?

越南为什么成为中国服装生产目的地？

随着纺织工业近年来稳步增长，越南已经成为世界上大的纺织品出口国之一。如今，纺织服装行业是越南国内大的经济部门之一。越南纺织服装协会称，该行业大约有4000家企业，年营业额为200亿美元，已经出口到世界上180个国家和地区。到目前为止，美国是越南的纺织品和服装出口的大市场，同时越南是继续中国之后美国第二大纺织服装出口国。欧盟是越南纺织服装的第二大进口地区。

当前我国是全球规模大的纺织品服装生产、出口和消费国。2014年，中国纤维加工总量占世界的比重超过50%，纺织品服装出口额占世界的比重接近37.4%。近年来随着国内外经济环境的改变，我国纺织行业不仅生产规模、出口数量和投资总额等统计数据出现增速下滑，主要出口市场份额下降也很明显，甚至部分海外订单开始撤离中国。为了应对上述变化，国内越来越多的纺织企业在境外投资建厂，而越南正在成为中国企业海外投资的重要目的地之一。通过转移新增产能，借助采购、生产和销售的全球化大大改善了国内企业的经营效益。

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Double factors prompt the domestic textile industry to “go global”<br /
2014年，我国制造业对外直接投资193.3亿美元，远远超过同期吸引外商直接投资的金额。截至2014年年底，国内纺织业已在全球100多个国家和地区投资建立超过2600家纺织服装生产、贸易和产品设计企业，其中大多数分布在亚洲。2004年至今，国内约200家服装企业在东南亚建设了生产车间。

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贸易因素和成本因素是推动国内纺织企业海外投资的主要原因。
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In terms of trade factors, some companies are responding to certain trade protection measures in Europe and the United States. For example, Shenzhou Knitting Group invested and built a factory in Cambodia as early as 2005 to break through the restrictions on the "origin" of products and avoid anti-dumping or "special" measures. the possibility of "guarantee"; some companies are trying to avoid trade barriers, such as Tianhong Textile Group Turkey and Uruguay have put into production, directly organizing production and completing sales locally, thereby saving the 30% high tariff set by the customs of the above two countries; some companies also want to enjoy special trade policies. For example, in 2011, the European Union announced a global Underdeveloped countries implement the Generalized System of Preferences, and many Southeast Asian countries are “on the list.” �因此如果从我国出口服装到欧洲需缴纳12%的关税，而从上述国家出口则可享受免税的优惠，由此吸引了国内很多纺织企业赴东南亚投资建厂� �<br /
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In addition to trade factors, comprehensive costs have also become an important factor restricting the daily operations of enterprises, including:<br /
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人工成本� Take the average annual salary increase of manufacturing employees in the textile industry clusters of Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Fujian as an example. From 2010 to 2013, the figures in the three places were as high as 18%, 16%, and 17% respectively. In addition to the natural increase in wages, the proportion of welfare expenditures Corporate welfare has also increased significantly due to changes in the population and employment structure (employee expenses for food, accommodation, leisure and entertainment, etc.) �与此同时，职业教育的滞后导致纺织业所需熟练工人供不应求，于是劳动力成本上升和招工难变成现实� �<br /
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土地成本。国内大多数纺织企业都集中在东部省份，随着订单增加导致产能扩大，新建厂房成为必然。然而当前我国东部地区土地价格飞涨，已超出了企业能承受的范围。
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原材料成本，主要指用棉成本，它占据了纺织企业生产成本中的大比例� Since 2011, in order to increase the income of farmers, my country has adopted a large-scale purchase of domestic cotton, while imposing quota restrictions on imported cotton and imposing tariffs of up to 40%, resulting in a serious shortage of high-quality cotton supply and domestic cotton prices for three consecutive years. It is more than 30% higher than the international market every year, which directly contributes to the sharp increase in the production costs of my country's textile enterprises. �</p

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Other costs: tax cost. According to rough calculations from textile companies, taking an ordinary piece of clothing with a market price of less than 100 yuan as an example, the tax burden including national tax, local education surcharge, social security and water conservancy funds is as high as 27.44 %, which does not include various administrative charges that companies often face; environmental protection Today, the current situation of energy conservation and emission reduction in our country is becoming increasingly severe. The new version of the “Environmental Protection Law” has strengthened the environmental protection responsibilities of enterprises and increased their environmental costs; energy costs, the textile industry has a large demand for electricity, so the cost of electricity is also The key content of enterprise cost accounting, and it is an indisputable fact that domestic electricity prices are currently high. �</p

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越南正在成为国内纺织企业对外投资的重要目的地。
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在国内纺织业热衷投资的东南亚地区，越南由于其自身特点，正在成为纺织企业对外投资的重要目的地。具体包括：
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第一，充足的劳动力资源。当前越南国��The total population is about 90 million, of which the working-age population is about 50 million. The market potential is huge, and the fact that there are more female labor force than men in Vietnam meets the needs of textile enterprises to prefer female employees. Although the wages of Vietnamese workers have risen rapidly in the past few years, compared with the domestic wage level of 500-600 US dollars in my country, the local average wage of 200 US dollars is still low.
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第二，长期、持续、优惠的招商政策� The Vietnamese government has made substantial concessions in terms of corporate income tax and land rent, such as the "four exemptions and nine half reductions" policy (previously "three exemptions and seven half reductions"), that is, as long as the total number of employees of foreign enterprises reaches 5,000, If the investment scale exceeds 300 million U.S. dollars, the company will be exempted from paying corporate income tax for three years starting from the first profit-making year, and will pay half of the corporate income tax for the next nine years. These preferential conditions far exceed those currently granted to foreign investors in my country. "Two years of exemption and three years of half-off" treatment for enterprises �而且中资企业在越南不需要缴纳类似于城建税、教育税等其他税种，大大降低了税负成本� �<br /
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第三，特殊的区位优势� �越南于2006年底加入了世界贸易组织(WTO)，它是中国—东盟自贸区成员，近期致力于《自由贸易协定》(FTA)和《跨太平洋战略经济伙伴协定》(TPP)的谈判� In early October 2015, 12 countries, including the United States, Japan and Vietnam, reached a basic agreement on the TPP and agreed to free trade. This means that Vietnam will implement zero tariffs on textiles and clothing exports to the United States in the future, which will surely stimulate Vietnam's domestic textile production capacity. and gross profit margins have increased, so many domestic textile companies have come to Vietnam in advance to prepare for sharing policy dividends in the future. �<br /
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第四，其他因素� �例如水费在中国每吨是3.5元，而在越南是2.4元，成本降低31%� �电费在中国每度是0.65元，而在越南是0.39元，成本降低了40%� �越南的用地成本仅为国内的20%左右，企业还能以每吨比国内便宜3000—4000元的价格进口质量更好的美棉和澳棉� In addition, compared with other Southeast Asian countries such as Bangladesh, Cambodia and Indonesia, Vietnam’s domestic political environment is relatively stable, the government’s attitude towards encouraging openness and attracting foreign investment is more firm, infrastructure and legal construction are increasingly improving, and the local textile industry is weak and the labor force is weak. Relatively high quality is also an important reason for attracting Chinese textile companies to invest in building factories. �</p

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Exploration of domestic textile enterprises operating in Vietnam<br /
当前越南聚集了来自中国、韩国、日本和法国等多个国家的纺织企业� �尽管外商企业数量偏少，但是占据了越南每年纺织服装60%的出口额，中资企业贡献较大� Dong Nai Province is a region in Vietnam that attracts a lot of foreign investment and has rapid industrial development. As of the end of the first quarter of 2015, there were more than 1,000 foreign direct investment projects in 31 industrial parks in the province, attracting about US$17.7 billion in foreign investment. Texhong, Blum and Shen Many leading companies in the domestic textile industry, including Zhouzhou, have set up factories here. �上述中资企业在越南的生产经营具有以下重要特征：<br /
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越南子公司的生产线属于国内纺织企业的新增产能� �目前实施“走出去”的纺织企业基本没有缩减国内原有产能，一方面，新增产能对外转移某种程度上是为满足海外客户的需求� �如申洲国际集团是一家针织服装代客原件制造商(OEM)，其主要客户有阿迪达斯(Adidas)、耐克(Nike)和优衣库(Uniqlo)等知名品牌� In recent years, the above-mentioned brands have gradually split their orders, which used to be entirely supplied by mainland China, into mainland China and overseas. In order to maintain long-term cooperative relationships with major customers, companies are forced to add new production capacity along with the transfer of orders; on the other hand, new production capacity External transfers have not reduced dependence on the Chinese market �很多在越南投资的中资纺织企业，如天虹集团，其大部分棉纱都会回销中国，反映出内地消费市场的潜力仍待提高� �<br /
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越南子公司的整体技术水平高于国内母公司� Most of the Chinese-funded textile companies investing in Vietnam are listed on the domestic A-share market. They have strong strength and abundant funds. Therefore, they mainly focus on greenfield investments. Their investment scale and designed production capacity are far better than their counterparts in South Korea, Japan and other countries. On the other hand, due to The Vietnamese government implements zero tariffs on equipment and materials imported for the production of key machinery products and services for investment and production of key machinery product projects. Therefore, Chinese-funded enterprises have imported internationally advanced equipment production lines from Europe to reduce the quality of Vietnam's labor force by increasing the degree of mechanization. Low impact on production �<br /
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国内纺织企业赴越南投资的“产业链整体转移”现象明显。例如百隆东方来越南投资建厂后不久，位于产业链下游的申洲国际、山东鲁泰和台湾国平等面料和纺织企业也相继转移至此。

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The above phenomenon is mainly based on two reasons: </p

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First, the overall strength of Vietnam’s textile industry is not strong, and the layout of the entire industry chain is unbalanced. Garment manufacturing is the main focus, and there are insufficient local companies that can provide supporting industries for Chinese-funded enterprises; </p

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二是美国在TPP中坚决主张“纱线优先”(yarn-forward)的原产地原则，即For textiles and clothing that are required to enter the U.S. market with zero tariffs, the production of raw materials from yarn to fabric, and the process of processing from cutting to sewing must be completed within the borders of TPP member states. This has also become the reason why a large number of Chinese textile companies have moved to Vietnam. important factors.

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目前天虹集团已在越南北部广宁省投资兴建了一个占地面积3300公顷的大型工业园，园区主要规划产业有纤维、纺纱、织造、印染以及机械制造等。雅戈尔集团也计划投资十亿元级别的越南工业园项目，将面料等产能投放到该园区内。未来在上述工业园区内将会形成全部由中资企业构建的完整的产业链，既能满足TPP的相关规定，还能极大地提高我国纺织行业的整体盈利水平。

重视本土化经营是各家越南子公司的普遍做法� �调研发现，越南的中资纺织企业里本土化程度很高，绝大多数员工都来自于当地招聘� At the same time, it has become a common practice for Chinese-funded enterprises to moderately increase the proportion of Vietnamese employees in management. For example, in Tianhong Renze Company, Vietnamese employees can be seen from the production workshop team leader to the company management team members. Management efficiency has also been greatly improved �此外，中资企业薪水比本土企业稍高，公司还给当地员工配置职工宿舍、食堂以及免费医疗等福利，所以越南籍员工普遍很重视这份工作� �<br /
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Some thoughts on the "going out" of the domestic textile industry<br /
部分媒体曾认为纺织服装业科技含量不高，创新空间有限，盈利能力较差，是“夕阳产业”的代表。然而，优衣库董事长蝉联日本首富以及ZARA创始人成为新晋世界首富的事实却揭示当前我国纺织业盈利潜力还有巨大的提升空间。为实现纺织业大国向纺织业强国的转变，应当尽快借助新理念、新技术和新模式对国内纺织业进行改造，以“转移”促“转型”，从而提高行业竞争力。
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(1) Grasp the laws of economic development and make full preparations as early as possible<br /
回顾欧美日本发达国家的发展历程不难发现，成本倒逼推动产业转移是一种正常的经济现象� With the increasing emphasis on high-tech industries in various regions of our country, the living space of traditional labor-intensive industries such as the textile and garment industry is shrinking. Therefore, through industrial transfer, resources are effectively allocated, markets are opened up, and production and processing links are selectively moved to the cost level. In areas with lower or closer terminal markets, the parent company will increase its investment in new product design, research and development, and marketing, climbing to both ends of the "smile curve". This is an effective way to promote industrial upgrading. �<br /
尽管部分前期赴境外投资的纺织企业已经为国内同行建立了成功案例，积累了宝贵经验� �然而，如果缺乏充分准备，忽视企业风险管控，产业对外转移失败的概率仍然较大� �企业需为“走出去”所做的准备主要包括：投资目标国的尽职调查和可行性分析� �不仅包括劳动生产率、产业链配套以及水电成本等因素，还必须充分了解当地的法律制度、文化风俗和政治环境等因素，以此作出综合评判� For example, Zhejiang Keer Group invested 218 million yuan to establish a production base in South Carolina, the United States. Although the local labor costs are more than three times that of China, they can make up for it through cotton raw materials, cotton textile power consumption, etc., and at the same time make use of local A developed logistics industry can also greatly reduce cotton storage costs; talent reserves for overseas investment �拥有一批外语娴熟、业务过硬、懂得管理的高素质人才是企业“走出去”的重要保障，尤其是懂得管理的技能在与东道国政府部门日常沟通和协调母公司的决策安排方面显得非常重要� �</p

另一方面，并非所有的国内企业都适合“走出去”。如我国大的棉纺企业魏桥纺织集团始终坚持把生产基地留在鲁北平原，多年来依靠产业链整合和员工激励等有效手段同样获得了较高的利润率。
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(2) Dialectically understand trade rules and actively respond to changes in the situation<br /
在经济全球化高度发展的今天，一国的行业只有充分参与国际分工、合作和竞争，加快企业的国际化进程，才有更多机会提升在全球价值链中的地位� �当前我国纺织业发展面临着既有来自国内的成本激增、融资受阻和出口放缓等压力，也有来自发展中国家订单分流和欧美市场高额关税壁垒的“双重挤压”� �因此，加快推动有实力的企业“走出去”、实现产业对外转移应在我国纺织行业内形成共识� Encourage leading enterprises in the industry to strengthen cooperation with the host country government in the construction of industrial parks to avoid going it alone, so as to drive domestic small and medium-sized enterprises that are responsible for supporting industrial supporting industries to "borrow ships to go overseas", forming grouping and scale effects, so as to improve the success rate of industrial transfer abroad. This is also the successful experience gained by Taiwanese companies in their overseas transfers. ��Up to now, strong companies such as Yuemei Group (Nigeria), Tianhong Group (Vietnam) and Hongdou Group (Cambodia) have established multiple textile industrial parks overseas, which has provided opportunities for other domestic textile companies to implement the "going global" strategy. Strategy reduces risk.
在产业对外转移过程中，企业还应当及时掌握市场信息，辩证认识国际贸易规则� �如TPP协议的生效会在短期内给我国带来贸易转移效应，受关税降低及原产地原则的影响，美国和日本今后更倾向于从TPP成员国进口，从而使我国遭受贸易转移的损失� �与此同时，TPP协议中不仅提高了知识产权的标准，还增设了劳工和环境条款，并与贸易相挂钩，它们今后都可能成为发达国家对非TPP成员的发展中国家实施贸易制裁的途径� However, it should also be noted that the high standards and new rules of the TPP represent the direction of economic globalization. Only by preparing in advance and actively responding can domestic enterprises not fall behind in future competition. By integrating domestic and overseas design, research and development, branding and Channel resources, gradually move up the global value chain, and achieve a reasonable global distribution of production and sales. �<br /
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(3) Seize the opportunity of technological revolution and promote transformation with the help of transfer<br /
在中国经济进入新常态的今天，以信息技术为代表的新一轮技术革命为传统制造业的转型提供了机会。我国纺织行业的发展应与时俱进，借助全球产业转移的契机，依靠新理念、新材料和新工艺推动产业升级。
The current concept of “Internet +” is profoundly affecting all categories of manufacturing. It has expanded the scope of innovation entities, from a single enterprise to an industrial alliance composed of multiple enterprises. It can realize the replacement of humans by machines through digital control, and at the same time It also greatly improves labor efficiency �国内很多纺织企业由于受现有生产机器还没完成预计使用年限、尚未收回投资成本所困扰，迟迟不愿彻底更换生产效率更高的机械设备，如今产业对外转移恰好提供良机� Textile enterprises transferred to developing countries can import more advanced production equipment at lower tariff prices. By building intelligent manufacturing production lines and digital factories step by step, integrating all links of the industrial chain to achieve intelligent management, it will not only ease the host country’s technical personnel The impact of shortages on production can also adapt to the development trend of downstream fast-moving consumer brands, meet customers’ personalized and differentiated small order needs, and expand the potential consumer market �<br /
“绿色制造”的理念也同样影响国内纺织业未来的发展方向� �过去纺织业常被视为“高耗能、高污染”的代表，许多企业为了增加盈利不愿在环保方面过多投入� �从2016年1月1日起，新版《环境保护法》开始实施，提高了环保要求，加大了对违法排污企业的处罚力度� �事实上，重视环境保护、实现绿色制造正在成为各国政府的共识� �如经济发展水平尚不如我国的越南政府就对所有外来企业提出了硬性要求，即污水处理系统必须达到A级水平，否则项目申请不予批准� �因此，通过鼓励企业“走出去”，倒逼国内行业转型正逐步变成现实� On the other hand, using advanced energy-saving equipment and technology to reduce the amount of pollutants discharged, reducing water and energy consumption in production, and integrating green manufacturing throughout the entire production process will also help increase the added value of textile products and break through the EU-based Non-tariff barriers set up by environmental protection standards will ultimately increase corporate profitability. �</p

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Source: China Economic Times</p